KATHMANDU, Nepal — The Chinese mountain climber tried to scale Mount Everest almost half a dozen times.
尼泊尔加德满都——这是这位中国登山者第五次尝试攀登珠穆朗玛峰。
The climber, Xia Boyu, ran into avalanches. He was turned back by an earthquake. He suffered frostbite and lost both feet.
这名登山者名叫夏伯渝。他遇到过雪崩,也曾因地震而不得不返程。他还因冻伤失去了双脚。
Years later, he was diagnosed with lymphoma and doctors amputated both of his legs above the knee.
多年后,他被诊断出患上了淋巴瘤,医生从膝盖上方截去了他的双腿。
But Mr. Xia never gave up.
但夏伯渝从未放弃。
On Monday morning, surrounded by ice, snow and rock, Mr. Xia reached the top of Mount Everest, the world’s highest mountain, as a double amputee.
周一早上,在冰雪和岩石的包围下,双腿截肢的夏伯渝登顶世界最高峰珠穆朗玛峰。
“Everything is possible,” said Ang Tshering Sherpa, who recently stepped down as president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association. “I have found that disabled climbers work hard and they are very committed. It’s a great example to the world about their success.”
“一切皆有可能,”前不久刚卸任尼泊尔登山协会(Nepal Mountaineering Association)主席之职的夏尔巴昂·策林·谢尔帕(Ang Tshering Sherpa)说。“我发现残疾登山者非常努力,非常投入。他们的成功给世人树立了很好的榜样。”
Mr. Xia isn’t a spring chicken either. He is in his late 60s, though recent photos show him looking trim and fit.
夏伯渝也不是年轻人。他都快70岁了,尽管他在前不久拍摄的照片中看起来依然精悍矫健。
He received a climbing permit two months ago after Nepal’s Supreme Court issued an interim order that allowed double amputee climbers to try for Everest’s summit. Last year Nepal had tried to limit double amputees from climbing the mountain.
两个月前,尼泊尔最高法院发布了一项临时命令,允许双腿截肢的登山者尝试攀登珠穆朗玛峰,夏伯渝因此获得了登山许可。去年,尼泊尔曾尝试限制双腿截肢者攀登珠峰。
He was at least the third double amputee to make it to the top, according to climbing records.
据攀登记录显示,他至少是第三位登顶的双腿截肢者。
Mr. Xia, who comes from Sichuan, lost both his feet to frostbite while trying to reach the summit in 1975, when he and his team were caught in a huge storm.
夏伯渝来自四川。1975年,他和登山队尝试登顶时,遇到了大暴风雪,他因冻伤失去了双脚。
He was diagnosed with lymphoma in 1996, and doctors removed most of his legs. He was then fitted with prosthetic limbs.
1996年,他被诊断出淋巴瘤,医生切除了他双腿的大半部分。然后他安上了义肢。
Mark Inglis, a double amputee from New Zealand, set a record on Mount Everest, becoming the first double amputee to reach the summit in 2006, according to the Himalayan Database.
根据喜马拉雅数据库(Himalayan Database)的信息,2006年,新西兰的马克·英格利斯(Mark Inglis)成为第一位登顶珠峰的双腿截肢者,创造了纪录。
Santiago Quintero Sylva, a double amputee from Ecuador, got to the top in 2013, the database says. Jeff Glasbrenner, a single amputee American, reached the peak of Everest in 2016.
该数据库显示,2013年,厄瓜多尔双截肢者圣地亚哥·金特罗·席尔瓦(Santiago Quintero Sylva)登顶珠峰。2016年,美国单腿截肢者杰夫·格拉斯布伦纳(Jeff Glasbrenner)登顶珠峰。
The Everest route opened on May 13 this year after an eight-member team of Sherpas repaired the ropes.
在八名夏尔巴人组成的小队修复了绳索之后,珠峰登山路线于今年5月13日开放。
Nepal’s tourism department says that 346 mountaineers have taken permits for climbing Mount Everest this year from the Nepal side. It’s also possible to scale the mountain from China.
尼泊尔旅游部门表示,今年有346名登山者从尼泊尔一侧获得了攀登珠峰的许可。登山者也可以从中国那一侧登顶。
The weather was clear on Monday morning, when Mr. Xia made it to the summit, with a team of Sherpas helping him.
周一早上,天气晴朗,夏伯渝在一群夏尔巴人的帮助下登顶成功。
By late afternoon, the wind picked up and it began to snow. Nepalese officials said more than 100 climbers were getting ready for the summit and were to head toward it around 7 p.m. or 8 p.m. Monday night.
下午晚些时候,起风了,开始下雪。尼泊尔官员表示,一百多名登山者在为登顶做准备,会在周一晚上7点或8点左右前往珠峰。